Paonia State Park – A Brutally Honest Review from a Full-Time RVer

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Paonia State Park is a hidden gem for those seeking a serene escape into nature. 

As a Colorado local and a full-time RV-living mermaid, I’ve had the pleasure of exploring many of the Centennial State’s parks, and Paonia State Park is a rustic treat, although I wouldn’t recommend it to everybody.

And, honestly, I really couldn’t find a lot of information on this park (hence…this article).

This park isn’t your typical tourist hotspot, but rather a quiet retreat where you can truly immerse yourself in the wilderness…kinda.

Where is Paonia State Park

Paonia State Park Podcast Stories

If you want to hear our stories firsthand in Paonia State Park. Check out the podcast!

Things that Make Paonia State Park Unique

It is Very Rustic for a Typical CO State Park

The park’s remote nature means you won’t be jostling for space with throngs of tourists.

Instead, you’ll find yourself surrounded by dramatic cliffs, dense forests, and clear waters, perfect for kayaking or fishing. 

The Reservoir

What makes Paonia State Park truly unique is its secluded location and the Paonia Reservoir, which serves as the park’s crown jewel. 

Unfortunately, nobody told me that the only times to use the reservoir for recreational purposes was early summer.

By the time I got there in August, the water was too low to do anything, at least according to the park ranger.

It is also important to note that if you are in the Anthracite Campground with electric, this isn’t necessarily on the reservoir. You can hear the creek beside you, but you can’t see it.

Location

The park is also a gateway to the rugged Gunnison National Forest, making it ideal for adventurers looking to explore beyond the beaten path.

Keep in mind that anything worth doing is at least 40 minutes to an 1 hour away. So, be prepared for a drive. Luckily, Kebler Pass, McClure Pass, and Highway 133 is nothing short of spectacular.

Best Time to Go to Paonia State Park

Please keep in mind that Paonia State Park is closed from the end of September to May 1st.

Spring and Summer

The best time to visit Paonia State Park is from late spring through early summer. 

During this period, the weather is mild, and the reservoir is full, offering the best conditions for water activities. 

The park’s high elevation means it can be chilly, even in summer, so pack layers.

When we were here during late summer, the temperatures ranged from 65° to 90°F. I would expect a wide range of temperatures with colder nights.

Read More – Adult Summer Bucket List | Aesthetic Summer Bucket List

Fall

If you aren’t looking for water activities, Autumn is also a stunning time to visit, as the surrounding aspen groves turn vibrant shades of gold and orange, creating a picturesque backdrop for your adventures.

Seriously – that Kebler Pass has oceans of aspen trees and I bet driving that pass would be a fall dream! 

Read More – Ultimate Autumn Bucket List

Best Spots at Paonia State Park

Paonia State Park is separated into three different campgrounds.

Personally, I preferred Spruce and Hawsapple as they were closer to the reservoir and felt more like a state park.

However, there was no way I was getting my massive fifth wheel anywhere near these campgrounds.

Snag the official Paonia State Park brochure 👉 here.

Spruce Campground

The Spruce Campground has six campsites and is surrounded by spruce trees and a babbling brook.

To get as close to the water as possible, I would aim for sites 8, 9, or 13.

Hawsapple Campground

The Hawsapple Campground is across the river and has 7 campsites. This one is most popular with water skiers.

If you have a small enough RV or a tent, I would try to snag site 2. This was my favorite because it is semi-isolated and you have a good view of the water.

Anthracite Campground

The Anthracite Campground has 7 campsites that are on the Muddy River just off of the reservoir.

Originally, we choose site 22 so that we could be close to the water. Unfortunately, we cannot really see the water at all.

Therefore, I would actually recommend site 23 for its shade. 

The good thing about site 22 is that it is right on the end so we don’t get any views of our neighbors or the park. However, it is right on Kebler Pass and there is some consistent moderate traffic.

Views You Will Get at Paonia State Park

Overall, I would say that the reservoir is the most beautiful part of the park itself.

As for the Anthracite Campground, it literally just looks like a small campground on the side of the highway. 

I can see the Muddy River if I take a non-designated path down, but it’s pretty much inaccessible. 

Luckily, the surrounding area is very pretty – forests and rocks jetting up to the sky. 

Where the views really shine is in the surrounding areas – Kebler Pass is jaw dropping and driving through the Gunnison National Forest is like a dream!

Overall Rating of Views Here at Paonia State park

(4/5 Stars)

This entire area is spectacular, there is no way around it.

I , ironically, loved the views surrounding the park more than in the park itself.

Facilities at Paonia State Park

Paonia State Park is relatively rustic compared to more developed state parks. 

Facilities are basic but adequate, with a small campground, picnic areas, and vault toilets. 

There’s no running water, so be sure to bring your own. 

The park’s simplicity is part of its charm, allowing you to connect with nature without the distractions of modern amenities. 

If you’re looking for luxury, this might not be the park for you, but if you’re after a true nature experience, you’ll find it here.

Keep in mind that depending on your cell carrier, there may be no service. We have AT&T and we had ZERO service the entire time.

Overall Rating of Facilities at Paonia

(1/5 Stars)

It is very basic here at Paonia. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing if you want to disconnect from modern-day luxurious.

But as a full-timer who spent the maximum time here, I was, putting it lightly, a VERY stinky mermaid.

Staff at Paonia State Park

The staff at Paonia State Park are friendly and knowledgeable, always willing to share tips on the best spots to visit or where to catch the biggest fish. 

Since the park is more remote, you might not encounter staff as frequently as in larger parks, but when you do, you can expect a warm and helpful interaction.

Personally, I chatted with him right when I got there and then never had another interaction. 

He did mention that he is only there Monday through Friday and they sometimes bring in other rangers from other parks to make up the difference. 

Overall staff Rating at Paonia State park

(3/5 Stars)

Ranger was very friendly and knowledgable! I appreciated his honesty with the reservoir.

The only reason I give 3 stars is that there are plenty of times when no one was here.

Is There Shade at Paonia State Park?

Shade is plentiful at Paonia State Park, thanks to the dense forests that cover much of the area.

The picnic areas are well-shaded, providing relief from the summer sun. Some spots are more shaded than others.

However, near the reservoir, shade can be limited, so bringing along a portable canopy or umbrella is a good idea if you plan to spend a lot of time by the water.

Overall Shade Rating

(3.5/5 Stars)

Definitely better than average access to shade in this park. I found the Sage Campground to be extra luxurious with shade in mind.

Is Paonia State Park Pet Friendly?

Yes, Paonia State Park is pet friendly, so feel free to bring along your furry companions! 

Dogs are welcome on the trails and in the campground, but they must be kept on a leash at all times. 

The park’s natural setting is perfect for pets that enjoy exploring the outdoors, but be mindful of wildlife, especially if your pet is prone to wandering off.

The ranger warned me of bears that are in the area, so keep that in mind with your furry friend.

Overall Rating for Pets at Paonia State park

(2.5/Stars)

Is Paonia State Park Big Rig Friendly?

Paonia State Park can accommodate smaller RVs and travel trailers, but it’s not the most big rig-friendly location. 

The campground is small, with tight turns and limited space, so if you have a larger rig, you may find it challenging to navigate. 

However, if you’re comfortable with a bit of maneuvering and prefer a more rustic experience, the park’s tranquility and beauty are well worth the effort.

If you do have a big rig, I would head towards the Anthracite Campground. Spruce and Hawsapple Camgrounds are very small and spots range from 10 to 35 feet.

Important: the max vehicle length drastically changes from spot to spot.

Within the same campground, you will find max lengths of 70 and 22. Some spots are even as low as 10 feet!

Be sure to check the length of your spot to make sure that you will fit.

Overall Review of Big Rig Friendliness at Paonia State Park

(1.5/Stars)

There are only really two spots for larger rigs. Two of the three campgrounds are pretty much inaccessible for big rigs (except for one 35 foot site in Spruce).

Driving around this park leaves little room for error.

Type of Hookup at Paonia State Park

The majority of Paonia State Park offers basic camping with no hookups available. 

This is a dry camping experience, so you’ll need to come prepared with your own water, power, and waste management solutions. 

The lack of hookups is part of what keeps the park quiet and less crowded, making it a great spot for those who enjoy boondocking in a stunning natural setting.

The only campsite with electric availability is Anthracite. 

There is no water or sewer in any campsite. And when I say no water, I mean NO water. Not even a hydrant, sink, or anything.

Hookups at Each Campsite

• Spruce Campground – Basic, Max Length 25 feet
• Hawsapple Campground – Basic, Max Length 35 feet
• Anthracite Campground – Electric only (30/50 Amp), Max Length 70 feet

Overall Review of Hookups at Paonia State Park

(1.5/5 Stars)

My only reason for the low rating is that the hookups are non-existant. The only place with electric (and nothing else) is the Anthracite Campground.

All others are basic. This can be a good thing depending on the camper.

Things to Do Near Paonia State Park

While Paonia State Park has a reservoir and other nature activites, there’s plenty to explore in the surrounding area. 

Paonia

The nearby town of Paonia is a charming spot to visit, known for its vibrant art scene and local wineries. 

Marble

Marble, Colorado, is a quaint mountain town brimming with history and natural beauty, making it a delightful destination for any traveler. 

This Colorado town is famous for its stunning white marble, which was used to build the Lincoln Memorial and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in Washington, D.C. 

Gunnison National Forest

For more outdoor adventure, head to the Gunnison National Forest for hiking, mountain biking, and wildlife watching. 

Crested Butte

Just about an hour away, Crested Butte is a wonderful day trip from Paonia. 

Plus, you get to drive over Kebler Pass, which was the highlight of our stay (I adore small mountain roads).

Once you get to Crested Butte, you will be treated to stunning mountain views, quaint mountain shops, and plenty to do. 

One of the most popular things to do here is to take the chairlift up the mountain (or hike it) and enjoy the views. 

Room for Improvement

Lack of Amenties

Paonia State Park’s main drawback is its lack of amenities. 

While the rustic charm is appealing to some, others might find the lack of running water and modern facilities a bit challenging, especially if you are a full-timer like me.

Improvements like adding more campsites and basic amenities would make the park more accessible to a broader range of travelers.

Anthracite is a Rustic Paradise…Almost

I would agree that the lack of amenities is tough. No showers and no access to water is brutal if you are staying for a long period of time.

However, I can deal with all that if it was a true nature escape. And it is almost there. The only thing that there is a road right off of the park. 

I might be able to hear the river from my spot, but I can also see and hear the highway. 

For a park that doesn’t have very many facilities and amenities, I would prefer to be totally isolated in nature. 

Note that the other campgrounds feel more like a nature paradise, I just couldn’t fit.

So Much Potential with the River

This campground has so much potential with the river! However, there is so much vegetation and no easy access that it’s like it’s not even there. 

Granted, we can hear the river, but we were a bit disappointed that we couldn’t have more access to it. 

I also expected the Anthracite Campsite to be more apart of Paonia State Park, but it is almost like it is its own separate entity.

Tip: Wear bug spray! While outside, I got bit by something that caused a nasty rash and infection while here. My arm inflated about double the size of my other arm! It was pretty gnarly.

The Signs are Lacking

Since Paonia State Park is spread out all the way across a reservoir and rivers, it is very confusing.

There was a clear sign for the Sage Campground. Hawsapple was harder to spot at a different entrance, but we still found it okay.

Anthracite? Not so much. We totally missed it. And because we missed it, we ended up having a very stressful time not to turn around. 

If we couldn’t turn around, we would have ended up Kebler Pass. Although beautiful, Kebler pass is not make for large rigs. In fact, it would have actually been illegal for us to drive up that road with no way to turn around.

In a very polite way, we would have been f***ed. 

Therefore, I wish there was more signage so make it easier to know when to turn.

I did spot the sign eventually – a small red sign on the left hidden by some plants.

As I said, it looks like a tiny campground on the side of the road. And there are several other campsites right in the vicinity. 

It is, confusing, to say the least. 

Would I Recommend Paonia State Park?

I would recommend Paonia State Park to tent campers and “weekend warriors” with smaller RVs who want a more basic camping experience. 

If you’re seeking a peaceful, off-the-beaten-path experience with stunning natural beauty, this park deserves a spot on your bucket list. 

Just remember to come prepared for a more rustic camping experience and take the opportunity to disconnect and immerse yourself in the wild, untouched landscapes that make Colorado so special.

More Resources to Get You to Paonia State Park